Simplicity Star Sewist entry, Jiffy 1364

Somehow I came across the Simplicity Star Sewist competition pretty late...! It's been around since much earlier in the year, and (typically!) I stumbled across it one week before closing! I have some white, vintage-esque broderie anglaise fabric which I bought with a crisp summer top in mind, so I opted for the simple Simplicity 1364 pattern.
TECHNIQUE: Bias binding.

You could be brave and make your own... or you could do what everyone else does and buy it! I hand pinned mine before sewing and THEN remembered that I had purchased an amazing bias foot for my Singer that I have still failed to try out. There is quite a helpful little video about them here:

I think for this project, with limited binding required, pinning and stitching was fine. But I plan to finally make thre beautiful vintage wrap dress as featured on the Great British Sewing Bee, and for that epic binding task I promise myself I will get out that binding foot!!

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MY HACK 1: Fake your finishing touches.
I decided to freshen it up a bit with some blocks of plain white cotton poplin down the flanks and this AMAZING trim I found at New Trimmings (this is really an "in-the-flesh" store - their online presence is about 1% of the goodies they stock!) which, once sandwiched between two edges, forms a delicate ladder. A bit like a modern take on heirloom stitching. What a great, quick cheat!

Simplicity 1364 in white broderie anglaise

MY HACK 2: Dream up extra darts for better shape.

I made this straight up essentially as a muslin but in the finish fabric, and basically pinned it in where it needed a little more fit (the size 8 was basically a square box when made up!). I realised that I could put in two weighted double-ended darts at the back and remove some of the excess "bagging" there. I trimmed these close to the stitch line for this garment, as they would have shown through the natural holes in the garment, but this didn't matter much as this fabric basically doesn't fray and so doesn't really need finishing.

Simplicity 1364 in white broderie anglaise
LESSON LEARNT: Vintage fit.

I was aware when starting out that this was a vintage pattern with a loose fit, and I added double-pointed back darts to fit it slightly closer and pleats at the front and back neckline for detail and also to change the shape/fit a bit. Even after this, the top fits over the head, so I omitted the zip completely.

I finished the edges with plain cotton bias (ready-made, im afraid!!) and was so delighted that both of these crisp cottons fray very very little and so we're easy to work with.

Overall I'm pleased with how the block/trim effect worked and I like the combination of fabrics in general, however next time around I would make this pattern up in a soft floaty fabric which would be more forgiving of the boxy vintage fit. This crisp fabric would work better in a much more fitted top and I would change the ratios to make a thinner broderie anglaise panel and wider plain panels. I have some leftover... so maybe I will do just that!

Simplicity star sewist entry, 1364 in white broderie anglaise Simplicity star sewist entry, 1364 in white broderie anglaise



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